Tip's.

The how to's, cultivation details of various plants, propagation methods etc Everything you need to know for successful gardening.

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KAMasud
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Country: Pakistan
City: RawalPindi

Tip's.

Post by KAMasud »

Mixing charts for gardening with hydrogen peroxide

If you want to start gardening with hydrogen peroxide, you need to know how much peroxide to use. Here are charts to tell you how much!

To water or mist plants, to soak seeds, to add to water used to wash sprouts:

TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
1 cup 1 and 1/2 teaspoons 7 to 10 drops
1 quart 2 tablespoons 1/2 teaspoon
1 gallon 1/2 cup 2 teaspoons
5 gallons 2 and 1/2 cups 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon
10 gallons 5 cups 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
20 gallons 10 cups 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
bathtub (aprox 25 to 35 gallons) * 12 to 17 cups 1 to 1.5 cups

* bathtub sizes vary. It is okay to use more water and/or less peroxide.


To spray on sick or fungusy plants:
TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE
1 cup 1 tablespoon 1/4 teaspoon
1 pint 2 tablespoons 1/2 teaspoon
1 quart 1/4 cup 1 teaspoon
1 gallon 1 cup 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
5 gallons 5 cups 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons
10 gallons 10 cups 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoons
20 gallons 20 cups 1 and 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons

Please be mindful to choose the correct column in the chart depending on whether you are using 3% hydrogen peroxide or 35% hydrogen
___________________________________________

Ok let me explain the H2O2 thing y. Plants are living, their roots are living, all living things require Oxygen and our clay soils, tightly packed dont allow in much Oxygen leading to root rot.
Second manure and other good things require Oxygen to break down and release its goodness.
Third, and nothing to do with the above, over water your pots every two weeks(indoors) so that the toxins (plant pee) drains out. Appreciate the colour of the fluid that flows out. Use a tub (plastic) to contain the pot while this procedure is carried out.
As to anti fungal properties, its info for me to.
Regards.
KAMasud
Posts: 132
Joined: July 11th, 2012, 6:51 am
Country: Pakistan
City: RawalPindi

Re: Tip's.

Post by KAMasud »

KAMasud
Posts: 132
Joined: July 11th, 2012, 6:51 am
Country: Pakistan
City: RawalPindi

Re: Tip's.

Post by KAMasud »

For Gardenia and acid loving plant lovers, also Isloo/Pindi wallas in general due to Calcium hardness/salts.

Magnesium sulfate (or magnesium sulphate) is an inorganic salt (chemical compound) containing magnesium, sulfur and oxygen, with the formula MgSO4. It is often encountered as the heptahydrate sulfate mineral epsomite (MgSO4·7H2O), commonly called Epsom salt. You can get it at a chemist or you can get cheaper industrial grade from chemical dealers. It dissolves rapidly in water and can be used via watering can, one tablespoon per ten litre can. Magnesium as it is, is required by plants, leaf yellow tip.
Regards.

In gardening and other agriculture, magnesium sulfate is used to correct a magnesium or sulfur deficiency in soil; magnesium is an essential element in the chlorophyll molecule, and sulfur is another important micronutrient. It is most commonly applied to potted plants, or to magnesium-hungry crops, such as potatoes, roses, tomatoes, peppers and cannabis. The advantage of magnesium sulfate over other magnesium soil amendments (such as dolomitic lime) is its high solubility, which also allows the option of foliar feeding.
M Farooq
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Re: Tip's.

Post by M Farooq »

KAMasud wrote:Mixing charts for gardening with hydrogen peroxide

If you want to start gardening with hydrogen peroxide, you need to know how much peroxide to use. Here are charts to tell you how much!
__________________________________________

Ok let me explain the H2O2 thing y. Plants are living, their roots are living, all living things require Oxygen and our clay soils, tightly packed dont allow in much Oxygen leading to root rot.
Second manure and other good things require Oxygen to break down and release its goodness.
Third, and nothing to do with the above, over water your pots every two weeks(indoors) so that the toxins (plant pee) drains out. Appreciate the colour of the fluid that flows out. Use a tub (plastic) to contain the pot while this procedure is carried out.
As to anti fungal properties, its info for me to.
Regards.
I would agree behind the idea of giving an oxygen boost to roots but if we think that this "benefit" of oxygenation is quite temporary. Hydrogen peroxide decomposition kinetics are very fast with most organic matter. Thus oxygen will diffuse out in a short time. A clayey soil would still be water logged. As a matter of fact tap water, is still saturated with dissolved oxygen. If I remember the analysis correctly, we used to find about 8 to 9 mg O2/ 1L of water.

Karachi's soil is not clayey, but still what I tried that I would poke a thin metallic rod to the bottom of the pot, at many places, for the sake creating artificial earthworm like holes for deep aeration. BTW, putting earthworms in the pots is not a bad idea!

It is good to drain out accumulated salts in the pots occasionally but that brown drained water has nothing to do with waste. That brown colour arises from humic acids from soil which are thought to be beneficial for binding trace elements in the soil as metal-complexes.

Regards,
Farooq
Muhammad Arif Khan
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Re: Tip's.

Post by Muhammad Arif Khan »

Farooq,
putting earth worms in a pot IS A BAD IDEA.
The earth worm tunnels become drainage canals, the irrigation water just flows out of pot. Earth worms are good in garden but not in pots.
I use Potassium per Magnate to kill them if a pot gets infested. I cover the hole in pot with a fine mesh to deny entry of ants and earthworms.
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Re: Tip's.

Post by Izhar »

I think the difference in the soil texture is making the earthworms good or bad... here in Karachi, i have noticed the plants grow way better in the presence of earthworms in pots, so i always put some in the new pots.. otherwise the soil becomes compact with regular watering..
M Farooq
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Re: Tip's.

Post by M Farooq »

Muhammad Arif Khan wrote:Farooq,
putting earth worms in a pot IS A BAD IDEA.
The earth worm tunnels become drainage canals, the irrigation water just flows out of pot. Earth worms are good in garden but not in pots.
I use Potassium per Magnate to kill them if a pot gets infested. I cover the hole in pot with a fine mesh to deny entry of ants and earthworms.
Arif sahab, If the pot soil is purely clayey, you might get these air pockets. But if pot soil is well mixed with organic matter like manure then the holes will collapse as the pot is watered. Given that Karachi's soil is loamy, the tunnels created by earthworm collapse readily as the soil becomes wet.
Muhammad Arif Khan
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Re: Tip's.

Post by Muhammad Arif Khan »

My view was based on my experience. Sorry if I am misleading. Some more search is required.
Muhammad Arif Khan
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Re: Tip's.

Post by Muhammad Arif Khan »

Result of search
Worms are your pot plants worst nightmare
April 18, 2008 Ben General

Who would have thought that a pot plant would suffer from compost worm infestation?
Everywhere you read that worm castings are the best thing for fertilising your plants, this is no lie. But the very maker of your valuable worm castings can mean a slow growth rate for your plants in pots.
The job of worms is to eat organic matter and break it down into smaller and more usable elements. When you use a good quality potting mix, it is generally made of 100% organic matter that is mixed in such a way to retain enough water to keep your plant happy while draining freely enough to allow the roots to breathe.
Worm castings are a great source of nutrients of plants, the mix of organic elements slowly fertilises plants and is great to use in potted plants which can only access the nutrients that you give them.
Combining the makers of this magic ingredient with your fabulous pot plants is a recipe for disaster. Worms eat organic matter (read potting mix) and deposit worm castings (read heavy soil). By having a population of worms living in your pots, they eat all the fine material in the potting mix and leave behind a heavy soil that is prone to water logging and poor drainage which will cause your plants to suffer.
Ensure that you don’t get worms into your pots, you should remove any worms from the castings you place in. Also by removing any visible eggs from the castings you will reduce the birth rate of worms in your pots.
If you’ve got a plant that’s infested with worms you should soak the plant in water, remove the plant from the pot and discard the potting mix to the garden where the worms will be appreciated. Re-pot the plant in fresh potting mix and add worm free castings.

Earthworms kill potted plants
For those who still doubt, I can now suggest an easy test. Add earthworms to a pot containing a healthy plant. Watch the plant decline over the next few months, then repot the plant after removing the worms, and see if the plant recovers.
Posted by Dr Francis Ng at 2:50 AM

Posted by basscadet Mediterranean (Greec (My Page) on
Mon, Apr 2, 07 at 5:27
Hello, I recently repotted some plants here and discovered huge earthworms in them. When I say huge, I mean worms that are really too disproportionately big to turn around in those small pots. They're not grubs, millipedes, slugs or anything else, just long, large, brown earthworms (complete with ring). I read around some forums and although ppl praise them in gardens and open spaces, they are generally bad news when they appear inside containers[*]
• Posted by alys Zone 5/6 - MO (My Page) on
Thu, Apr 5, 07 at 9:16
Gosh you learn something new every day! I never realized worms in planters were bad. I've even been known to put them there on purpose! I'll watch for that next time
Posted by tapla z5b-6a mid-MI (My Page) on
Mon, Sep 5, 11 at 16:52
If they live, it's much more likely the worms would end up a limiting factor, rather than a benifit to your plants. Worms feed on organic soil particles, reducing their size and destroying soil structure, and their castings exacerbate the process. The soil collapses, reducing aeration and slowing drainage while the castings fill in pores and increase the rate of collapse. The increase in the ht of the perched water table is primarily where the actual limitation comes in, and that is directly related to compaction, as well as soil aeration, the lack of which would also be limiting.
Al
I think I was right, No I am not sorry.
Arif
Izhar
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Re: Tip's.

Post by Izhar »

Hmm interesting... it is challenging my regular practice..
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