SOIL PH

Air-Layering, Grafting, Cuttings Etc

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newton
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by newton »

Syed Adnan wrote:I dont think adding wood is a good idea as it will take up Nitrogen from soil to get itself decomposed, it will starved the soil from nutrients, iam using vinegar for my pots just one tea spoon in a liter of water works fine for container gardening.
Sir it is not often that you are wrong but this time you are right :lol: :lol: :lol:

Yes most tree barks and wood contains large amounts of cellulose. Microorganisms in the soil that decompose cellulose work quickly and require large amounts of nitrogen. This results in a lack of nitrogen available to the plant growing in the medium.

The debate continues 8-) ;) :ugeek:

However importantly by contrast, in pine bark (not the wood itself), there is not much cellulose, but a lot of lignin. Lignin decomposes much more slowly, so the nitrogen is not depleted. It also "opens up" breathing space in the potting medium, creating best oxygen/gaseous exchange/mycorrhiza conditions thus optimising the ideal root health environment. It also makes the potting medium "consistently" acidic.

I suppose that if you fed your plants regularly with a liquid fertilizer, you could mitigate the nitrogen issue with wood, but I've never tried and like you said its not good practise.

Maybe the original poster is getting language confusion differentiating wood from pine bark.

Regards
Ifzal
newton
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by newton »

Nice wrote:Sir, what kind of wood we should use for these wood chips and from where we can get these(wood chips) in Lahore.

Regards
Nasir
If you go to a wood merchant or sawmill ask for Cheer or Dyaar bark it should be those two and not the other tree barks as they decompose in a different way. You should be able to purchase a small amount cheap as it is a waste product of low commercial interest.
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by Izhar »

I was thinking to give a try on the battery solution, last night bought a battery solution (Sulfuric Acid) bottle for Rs.20/- which we can assume as 30% (though not sure) if i add (which i did) 2 ml of this solution to 1500 ml of water it will be 0.04% solution and 0.008 Molar solution.

Density = 1840g / liter
Mass of H2SO4(30%) = 30/100*1840 = 552g H2SO4

Molar mass = 98g/mol
Mol of H2SO4 (30%) = 552/98 = 5.6 mol in 1.0 liter of acid solution
Molarity = 5.6M

Mass of H2SO4(0.04%) = 0.04/100*1840 = 0.736g H2SO4
Mol of H2SO4 (0.04%) = 0.736/98 = 0.0075 mol in 1.0 liter of acid solution
Molarity = 0.008M

Sulfuric acid is a diprotic acid in diluted solutions (below 0.1 M). Therefore the concentration of H3O+ is twice the molarity of H2SO4 because this holds 2 protons (H+) per mole.
So in a 0.008 M solution of sulfuric acid the concentration of H3O+ is:
0.008 x 2 = 0.016 M and

pH = -log (0.016) = 1.79 OR 1.8

So, i put this pH 1.8 solution in one of my gardenia and brunfelsia... if they survive, i shall test this solution on neighbor's extremely cholorotic ixora.... wish me luck..!!

PS: Do correct me if i have done the calculations wrong..
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by Hamad Ahmed Kisana »

very nice izhar bhai. :D :mrgreen: praying for your success.it will help us in future. :idea: with best wishes........
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by marif »

Izhar sahib.. your so dense calculations reminds me Organic Chemistry lectures.... :-)))))) in which I was never good at.. Good Luck with your solution test on plants any way...
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by Muhammad Arif Khan »

Sulphur and Iron sulphate has worked wonders on my Gardenias.
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by Izhar »

Sir, this is the safest way to reduce cholorosis... kindly do let us know your regimen to use them... if the battery water solution worked, then it will be the most inexpensive way to reduce the soil pH.
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by M Farooq »

I would be really curious to know the results because I could never cure chlorosis of Gardenia :-). Good luck!

Izhar bhai you have a very good ball park estimate. The pH of very dilute H2SO4 would range between 2 to 2.7 regardless of whatever the original concentration is. Your molar concentration estimate is approximately twice the actual value, because the density of 30% acid is close to water ~ 1.2, so the molarity of 30% acid is 3.7 M rather than 5.6 M. Regardless of this minor nuance your estimate is still perfect with the correct pH of 2.3 thanks to the logarithmic nature of this unit.
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by Izhar »

Thank you all for the positive words... :)

Today the plants are not showing any distress sign, i have been given this gadget (not sure about its accuracy):

Image

So i used it to check the pH. My water runs at 7, my planting medium is nearly 8 (just below 8) and the solution i made is below 3.5 (the meter has lowest reading of pH as 3.5)

It is interesting to observe that when i poured the solution in the pot, the pH just decreased to a value between 6 and 7.... so i guess there are plenty of buffering compounds in the medium... will water my two plants on daily basis with this solution...
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Re: SOIL PH

Post by Izhar »

Progress... new leaves are much bigger and greener:

Image
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